Living and loving the royal life!

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Somewhere in the heart of Gwalior, just a 4 hour train-ride from Delhi, stands an exquisite heritage 17th century landmark – open for lovers of nature and solitude. A place where trees sway, butterflies frolick, peacocks dance and friendships flourish with every step! Where silence is a spoken language and playful winds breathe fresh life into the walls that once provided shelter to the revolutionaries fighting under the reign of Rani of Jhansi. Our combined lives will fall short in summarizing the countless stories these lawns have witnessed or the many historic conversations these arched doors have eves-dropped on. And that’s the beauty of the Neemrana philosophy… a chance to live and love (pseudo ही सही) the royal life!

Princess feels - check!
Princess feels – check!

As an ardent admirer and advocate of slow travel – which automatically directs you towards budget and solo travel; this staycation was very interesting for me because it broke all my travel stereotypes. Not only did I get a fresh taste of luxury (and boy, did I love it!,) but this was also a trip where I was, for a change, not alone – and that sure made me very nervous at the onset! Two months ago, as a birthday present for a dear friend in Delhi, I planned a short staycation at Neemrana Deo Bagh in Gwalior. All my pre-travel jitters and anxiety went galloping back to Delhi the moment we stepped foot inside the Deo Bagh campus. I remember reaching our room and the first thing we both said to each other was “let’s not go anywhere!” It was that moment when I knew that traveling with Carly was the best decision and this staycation was going to be amazing!

My model and muse!
My beautiful model and muse!

And while it was definitely her awesomeness that made this trip so memorable, I cannot not mention the charm and beauty of the place that was just the perfect icing on the cake…or as we fondly say in Hindi: “सोने पे सुहागा”

Just Jane Austen and me while Carly made herself some green tea!

The sheer grandeur of Deo Bagh combined with the impeccable hospitality of their staff made us dream and think of princesses and life as royalty; and that’s exactly how we felt during our short but overwhelmingly serene stay at Neemrana Deo Bagh! The staff went out of their way to make sure we had a good time. The way they took care of us, looked after everything we wanted, pampered us with so much love and attention – it truly felt like we were living the royal life! So much so that we specially went to the market to buy anarkalis just because we wanted to walk around the gardens acting like the princesses we felt we were. And the FOOD!!!!!! How can I not mention the food… hands-down the best meals I’ve ever had! The lovely (color-coordinated) staff and impeccable hospitality mixed with the beauty and serenity of the property made our staycation just what we wanted: calm, relaxing and very very indulgent.


My dearest Carly,

Here’s to you, your charismatic personality, your beautiful aura, your uncanny sincerity and your heart-warming conversations. I remember and cherish every moment of these 3 days with you: The messages from the green tea-bags, the picnic in the garden and “two girls and two bananas. Wonder what you’re up to!”, the beggar on the street asking you for a cigarette, the royal photoshoot, being the only two people who loved seeing the bats at the fort, you giving yoga lessons to Narayan ji, the walk on a super sunny afternoon and not getting a ride back, the butterfly viewing and the peacock chasing….and that thing we did that night dressed in all-black with our torch lights on? I can’t say it here but you know what I mean *wink wink* ! You’re the girlfriend I never had and the girlfriend I always needed …and given a chance I’d turn back time and take a trip with you several years ago! I’m so glad you came into my life and you inspire me to be a better person and a better friend with every small thing you do. Here’s to you, to our ever-growing friendship and to a never-dying love! 🙂

The beautiful people of Neemrana Deo Bagh
The beautiful people of Neemrana Deo Bagh!


Details of my stay:
Neemrana’s Deo Bagh – 17th Century, Gwalior
To book your rooms, please call 0124 4666166 or write to 

Handy travel tips for female travelers making their first solo trip in/to India

Setting out to explore the big bad alluring world of travel all alone is never so easy, even more so when you’re a girl (not being a sexist here) I remember how paranoid I was before my first solo trip to Himachal. It has now been more than a year since, and today I don’t have to think twice before lifting my backpack and taking a train to my next destination.

Me on my first solo trip to Himachal!
Me on my first solo trip to Himachal!

When it comes to travel, you always have a choice of choosing to do it with friends or going solo. I’ve done both and equally enjoyed the experience. While numbers definitely give you safety, traveling solo gives you freedom. You get to choose your own pace, meet new friends more easily, do the things you want to without worrying about whether your friends would agree, and not being tied to a fixed plan that everyone has signed up for.

Having said that, being a solo female traveler also means attracting a lot of unwanted attention, especially if you’re traveling in India. I don’t think Indians are still open to the concept of females traveling alone, and I’ve personally had a few bad experiences of being judged by disapproving Indian tourists. I’ve been chased by eve-teasers in Jaipur, which led to me spending 2 days watching television at my guest house because I wasn’t ready to go out again without company. An American lady I met in McLeod Ganj was groped in a public bus in Himachal, by a man who told her she reminded him of his mother (really!). And if you’re unfortunate enough to be too fair-skinned, don’t be surprised if random people and families come up to you on the streets asking for a photograph.

So I thought I should start my blog by sharing the wisdom that I acquired from other female travelers I met through my travels. Follow this and you should be good for your first solo trip 🙂

Be prepared, be cautious, be alert but don’t let any of this deter you from exploring our beautiful country.

  • Pack light, pack smart – I can’t emphasize on this enough. Lisa Haydon wasn’t kidding when she made Kangana Ranaut leave her humongous suitcase for a backpack. Nothing ties you down on your travel more than a bag that needs lugging around. This might be the last of the concerns crowding your mind when you’re planning your first solo trip, but trust me it’s the most important. Lugging around a suitcase, even if it’s a strolley, can be a mean task when you’re alone. You will hate that strolley when you find the perfect house right at the foot of the mountain, and now these 100 mountain steps to and fro the place feel like Mt. Everest. Please keep in mind, Indian roads are not strolley friendly, many times not walk-friendly either, and public transport cannot be always relied upon. So carrying a suitcase around can really be difficult at times.

A smartly packed backpack at such times is the best friend you never invited to your trip. Pack in layers, remember you don’t have to carry your entire wardrobe, more important than clothes are essentials like torch/ portable charger/ map/ diary/ portable speaker. Always carry a backup phone with a good battery life for times when your smartphone gives up on you (I use Nokia 105) Don’t forget to keep copies of all important travel documents, in case the originals are stolen or lost.

  • Go shopping! – For the right things. If you’re headed to a mountain city, shop for the right shoes, if you’re traveling in the winters, shop for the right jacket, always always always invest in the perfect backpack suited for your height and weight (I use one from Stikage) Don’t let your judgment be clouded by fashion statements or brand names. When I traveled to North Sikkim, at freezing temperatures, it was a custom-made cheap leather jacket from Dharavi that helped me survive more than the costlier but more stylish winter collection jacket from Vero Moda. On my first day of sightseeing in McLeod Ganj, I slipped into the waterfall because my Puma shoes didn’t have the right grip suited for the terrain; a 600 shoe from Dharamsala streets came to my rescue for the rest of my trip. Similarly, a good swiss knife (I carry Victorinox), a powerful torch, the strongest portable charger will go a long way in taking a lot of stress off your mind while traveling.
  • Pre-travel via Google – Read read and read a little more about each and every aspect of the place you’re going to travel to. As a solo female traveler, nothing will make you feel more confident of your decision than a thorough risk assessment. Read up stories of other travelers about local transport, accommodation reviews through TripAdvisor or Airbnb, health conditions through the Indian government health advisory, the political environment, local laws, cultural taboos. A few states in India are out of bounds for certain nationalities for security reasons, visiting places close to the Indo-Pak border need Indian citizens to get special permissions in advance too. It’s always a good idea to be prepared for such situations.
  • It’s good to have it, but don’t flaunt it! – I’m speaking about your gadgets and expensive accessories. Whether it’s a DSLR or a Laptop or an iPhone, when you’re traveling by public transport, especially when there are chances of you taking a nap, do not put on display what’s in your bag. Also, be alert at all times, lock your bag, keep it between your legs / under your head when you sleep. A friend from China traveling on a bus from Delhi to McLeod Ganj didn’t even realize when her MacBook was stolen from her bag. Lucky for her, the thief didn’t spot the Canon 5D DSLR just below the Macbook! So yes, it’s ok to want that perfect train shot for your blog, but be extra cautious if you’re on an overnight journey or in an overcrowded compartment.
  • Choose homestays – In my personal experience, couch-surfing (or homestays) has helped me get acclimatized to a new place, as you always have the family to guide you through the initial days when you’re clueless about everything. It is also the best way to learn the culture, manners, try the local cuisine of the place you’re at. And if you’re lucky like I was, you could find a home away from home, a family away from your family, that works as a medication for your initial home-sickness period.
  • Dress right, drink responsibly – It isn’t even funny when you see girls in shorts and heels on a mountain trek. I’m totally for the freedom to choose what you wear without fear of being judged, but not for anyone else but yourself – please choose your clothes wisely. See the kind of place you’re heading to. See what the culture of the place is like, how the people of the area dress. Traveling is always more pleasurable and convenient when you accept the traditions of the place you’re in, rather than trying to carry your metro culture to it. Similarly, drink responsibly if you’re alone.
  • Most importantly, don’t be afraid to say yes – Transformation is the biggest gift traveling gives you! But this will happen only when you’re open to new experiences. It’s good to be alert while you travel, but there’s a thin line between being cautious and an outright worrying lunatic. Don’t get so paranoid that you forget the main reason why you stepped out alone in the first place. Being a solo female traveler in India can be intimidating, but 9.75 of 10 times chances are you will witness the brighter side and come out smiling after a good day spent with absolute strangers. Don’t be afraid to say yes, it might just turn out to be the best thing that ever happened to you!


You might be a solo traveler, but you don't have to be alone! Cherish the people you meet at your travels.
Traveling solo doesn’t mean traveling alone! Cherish the people you meet at your travels, these will be the best experiences 🙂

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