Kareri Chronicles : Kareri Lake trek, Dharamsala – For beginners


I know it’s been AGES since I last updated my blog, and I also apologize for being very ignorant with replying to comments too, but this post is my way of saying that I’m back and I won’t be missing in action again!

Now that this mandatory and much-needed apology is out of the way, let’s skip to the topic I’ve been dying to discuss! My very recent trek to Kareri Lake in Dharamsala!

Mornings like these 🙂

I want to start by saying that this was the first trek I’ve done in the last 2 years (third trek overall – after the Living Root Bridges & Triund). Now, you might wonder why I am emphasizing so much on my inexperience as a trekker. That’s because if there is anyone out there who is keen on taking this trek, but feels demotivated because it sounds difficult / taxing, don’t give it a second thought and just go for it. Like I always say – if a tiny, petite girl like me can do it, so can you, and lucky for us, so did some of my friends from Bombay & Chandigarh (some had never been on a trek before)


The happy Kareri crew!


Having said that, yes – the trek is taxing (if not difficult), mainly because the terrain is quite rough and wild including a lot of heavy climbing (STEPS!!!) for a very steep part of the way. If I am being honest, I did try to turn around and return once during the trek, but like all the best tour guides out there, mine too did not let me give up, and I willingly agreed to fall for the “just a little more” trap laid out before me. Was  it worth it? Why don’t you take a look at the pictures and decide for yourself 🙂

All pictures in this post have been shot using Google Pixel XL 2! It’s the first time I traveled without a DSLR, and I swear, I did not miss it for a second!

You will find the details of the trek (relevant contacts, itinerary etc) below the pictures.

Views enroute the scenic drive to Kareri Village


I swear I could’ve stayed back at the village and not regretted it at all! Such a beautiful place 🙂


Touchdown: Kareri Village, Dharamsala


My room with a view on the first night in Kareri village


And we’re ready to go!


Scenes from the start of the trek!


Still on the road to the trail. I have a thing for tree canopies <3


The first dhaba you encounter on the trail, right next to a beautiful stream. You can also get in touch with the dhaba owner for paid assistance for the trek (guide / tents/ food etc).
If treks did not have steps, I’d go for one everyday!


Shameless Wildcraft plug cuz free shoes!


Gorgeous ancient tree on the trail. I fell in love with this one! Look at the roots.


Manan of the Jungle 😉 Isn’t this tree just marvelous? We all took turns to climb this one.


Monkey’ing around! That’s our tour guide Amit, who is also a bouldering enthusiast.


Mera Highway wala ghar <3


When you can finally see your destination after 5 hrs of trekking. First view of the site.


Pic after trek fateh toh banta hai, boss! With Latha and Manan <3


First view: Panorama of the lake!


Panorama – Part 2! (With Arjun spoiling it)


Abhi captured this beautiful moment on our return from the lake. In the picture – me, Arjun and Manan 🙂 Picture credits: Abhinav Chandel



Trek level: Beginners
Start from: Kareri Village, Dharamsala (1.5 hours from Dharamsala main market)
Trek duration: 5-6 hours (Going up) 4-5 hours (Coming down)
Brief Itinerary:
Day 1 (suggested, can be done without this too):  Instead of traveling to Kareri early in the morning and starting the trek immediately, we chose to reach Kareri village a day early, and stayed at a village homestay for the night. The homestay had 3 rooms, and we were 9 people, so Arjun and I ended up setting a tent in the verandah for ourselves. This (in my opinion) turned out to be a good prep for the camping we had to do the next day.

Day 2: Wake up at the crack of dawn to see a very beautiful sunrise right outside our tents. If I can be honest, with Arjun snoring next to me, and Abhinav and Stuart snoring from the rooms behind me, I hardly caught a peaceful shut-eye throughout the night, and so the idea of it becoming brighter outside really came as a welcome escape for me. While everyone started segregating their essentials into trail backpacks and night bags (to be loaded on the khachchars), our house hosts busied themselves in preparing our breakfasts, enabling us to to start the trek on the right note! We left our homestay at approximately 8 am, and reached the lake at 1 PM. Whatever happened in-between can be seen in the pictures below.

Day 3: Another early start and this time we divided our group into two – 1) the ones who wanted to stick back and do some photography and 2) the ones who wanted to reach the toilet first! I was in the first group, and on leaving around 11 AM, we reached the village at 4 PM. It shouldn’t ideally take this long, but this was partially my fault, as I wandered off on the wrong path and that was an easy 1 hour penalty. I also tend to stop a lot on the way, talking to trees and soaking in the views, as opposed to most friends who can just run back to the destination.

If you need a tour operator to organize your trek (relieves you of the tension of carrying your own tents, food etc), you can contact Amit: 85797 20373

We were a group of 9 people, and we each Rs. 3,000 per person – this included the cab pickup and drop (ex-Dharamsala), the dinner + accommodation at the village, breakfast, trail food, and dinner the next day, and a simple breakfast on day 3, payment for the animals, tents & sleeping bags.

Trying to soak it all in!
Picture Credits: Fatima Sana Shaikh

The simpler life – What living in the mountains teaches you!

A year of living in Himachal = hell lot of time for self-reflection and introspection! PC: Fatima Sana Shaikh
A year of living in Himachal = hell lot of time for self-reflection and introspection!
PC: Fatima Sana Shaikh

Most of you are probably tired of hearing about how I quit my job to move to the mountains. I’m not going to bore you with the same old talk again! The inspiration behind this post today, as Facebook memories has gently alerted me: I complete 1 year of living in Dharamsala, and 2 yrs since the day I first came here as a tourist. DOUBLE YAY!

I often receive emails and messages from curious readers, listing a hundred how’s and why’s about my new-found lifestyle. (I have answered the “how” in this post last year: How traveling made me an entrepreneur!)

Now about the why… I usually just avoid most of such messages, not because I don’t want to answer them, but because living in the mountains is more than anything I could explain with a 160 character limit. And like everything else in this world that’s worth its while, this lifestyle that looks all rosy and happy on the exterior, doesn’t come without its own set of challenges. However, today being the anniversary to my renewed happy state of being, I thought I should try and share why (for me) living in the mountains is no longer a matter of choice! At the risk of sounding pompous, I do hope this inspires at least someone to quit the rat race of the urban space for the allure of a simpler life!


What I’ve learned from my short blessed time in Dharamsala!

  1. Your work is not your life!
Stop running. Stop thinking so much. Just stop. Make time for things that matter!
Stop running. Stop thinking so much. Just stop. Make time for things that matter! PC: Fatima Sana Shaikh

I can’t emphasize this enough! When you’re raised in a metropolitan like Mumbai, every decision of your life, whether intentional or not, is about that perfect career! And in order to achieve that, you’re always on the run – a race, where you always want to win! So brainwashed are we by this glorified everyday grind, we seldom realize how far behind we lost our peace of mind. In fact, even the slavery becomes a competition – who stayed back in office after working hours, what a hardworking person!

Living in the mountains away from the infrastructural luxuries of the city made me take that blind-fold off! Your work is just a part of your life, it doesn’t define you, IT ISN’T YOUR LIFE! Sure, you have a job, who doesn’t? But that’s not why, or what, you are about! The freedom we boast of in our city lives is the most superficial invention of mankind. We take pride in being free, while in reality – we are tied down at every step of the way to the very lifestyle we believe is a mark of our freedom. Next time you’re introducing yourself to a stranger, try not including your resume in it, and notice how that makes you feel about yourself 🙂


  1. Value conversations
There's always time for a chai-time chat!
There’s always time for a chai-time chat! PC: Fatima Sana Shaikh

My friends here are my mirror to reality, to life beyond the superficial. They don’t care about which client has signed my agency, or what I’m blogging about. How many followers I have on twitter, or how many likes do my posts get on instagram. Trust me, a few of them don’t even know what twitter/Instagram/facebook is, and I had to convince some to join Whatsapp.

It’s amazing to be around people who hang out with you for you. Conversations form the base of every relation here. People invite you over for chai, not because you’re someone special, but just because it’s a cold evening and aunty feels like talking. They’re as curious and fascinated about you as you are about them. Whether it’s strangers on the bus, or acquaintances at a café – people always have time to talk, and that’s a beautiful quality which is slowly dying in the cities!


  1. Silence is beautiful
Silence speaks louder than words, it's true!
Silence speaks louder than words, it’s true! PC: Kieran Woodford

If first impressions really were last, I don’t think I could have survived life here! Noisy streets, traffic torture, loud music – you can’t take these away from any city. From there to complete, absolute, impenetrable silence of my humble abode tucked away in the middle of wilderness – that’s a transformation one can never prepare for. In my initial few weeks, I found the silence so jarring, I would play music on my phone, all day long, even while I was sleeping, just to have something going on. 4 months later, I left a perfectly comfortable house, village actually, and shifted to a place far away even from tiniest influence of tourists – just because there was construction nearby and I couldn’t tolerate the noise of stones being hammered. That’s how addictive the company of silence can be, and once you’re smitten, there’s no turning back!


  1. Nature is an addictive companion
Home - Himnoor - my little piece of heaven!
Home – Himnoor – my little piece of heaven! PC: Abhinav Chandel

I live in a mudhouse that has no brick or metal in its foundation (except in the washroom). A house that I have to mop with cowdung every fortnight to save it from falling apart! Our garbage is divided into wet and dry waste, the former is used as compost, latter is buried or burned (no other option). The water I drink comes from a mountain stream nearby. The milk comes from my neighbors cow. My meals almost always have home-grown veggies. The most regular visitors in my house are exotic moths, lizards, scorpions, rats – which also attract our neighbors cat – trust me, it’s a mad house! Getting my hands dirty in the farm is far more satisfying than any promotion / appreciation I have received in the past! My room is surrounded by so much greenery, someone smoking a cigarette would feel like air pollution.  When my aunt from Bombay came to visit me last month, her first reaction was “why the hell are you living in this jungle?” I took that as a compliment and smiled the biggest smile! Living in such close proximity to different elements of nature is addictive, a habit that teaches you how much we complicate our lives in the city, a healthier, happier addiction!


  1. Inspiration beats competition!
Volunteering with the lovely folks at Waste Warriors. The NGO takes volunteers for weekly clean-up treks to the most popular (and hence contaminated) places in Dharamsala.
Volunteering with the lovely folks at Waste Warriors. The NGO takes volunteers for weekly clean-up treks to the most popular (and hence contaminated) places in Dharamsala.

I always looked up to starlets and celebrities, my bosses and managers, my friends who were doing remarkably in their line of work. It was only when I moved here that I realized how shallow I was. I was taking inspiration from people I’d like to be one day, people I’d like to compete with – be that successful, that rich, that famous. When I moved here, I felt very proud of myself, I was breaking barriers, doing something no one in my circle had. And here, I saw reverse migration is huge and it’s incredible! They might not be huge in numbers, but the ideas these city runaways are trying to sow, will truly be a path-breaking one day! There are local women who were earlier victims of domestic violence and are now winning national awards for slapping patriarchy in the face, techies setting up camps here to make local lives easier with renewable power and recycled materials, westerners starting day schools and mesh for kids of construction workers, youngsters setting up libraries in the remotest villages of Leh-Ladakh, one school at a time! I’ve had the honor of meeting such incredibly inspiring souls, devoted with all their heart to making a difference, bringing a change – not because they’re getting paid to do it!




  1. Pav bhaji and Kheema pav – Dharamsala has no pav and even after 2 years, that’s one thing I can’t forgive or forget!
  2. High-speed internet – Can’t do with, can’t do without. Fortunately or unfortunately, my work depends on the mercy of the internet Gods, and Devbhumi is quite weak in granted those signals!
  3. Auto rickshaws – When you have to pay 150 bucks for a mere 2km distance, you know you miss your Bombay rickshaw walas!
  4. Movies – Throw a girl from the Bollywood city, into a place that has no movie theatre. Not a single one! You have no idea how much that hurts.
  5. Family & friends – All the challenges mentioned above might be super materialistic, but that’s because life in Mumbai feels just that now! Perhaps the only true connection I feel to the city now is my family & friends!


Help keep our travel trail clean. Don’t litter, motivate your friends to do the same!

City girl in the mountains!

If you’ve read my older posts you will know, I’m a girl from Mumbai who has always dreamed of living in the mountains, like every other city girl! After years of dreaming and feeling absolutely jealous of the people who made it happen, I finally took the great leap of faith and have moved to Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh!

I chose the wonderful city of McLeod Ganj as my soulmate because this is where it all started. Exactly this time, last year, I took my first ever solo trip to McLeod Ganj, and have ever since been so fascinated by the owerpowering grandeur of the Dhauladhar mountain ranges that I never really felt at home when I returned to Mumbai. Moving back here now feels like a completion of my karmic circle, and though the thought of living alone in a strange city seems daunting at times, I’m confident this move will lead me towards a harmonious union with myself, with my self mandala!

This morning, I woke up at the crack of dawn to the sounds of chirping birds! I stepped into the balcony to this gorgeous view of the sun peeping out of the mountains. It took me back to the days of primary school, where our drawing class assignments would include “A Scenery”, and like most kids with not a single bone of creativity in their body, I always chose to draw the simple mountains, with half the sun peeping between the peaks colored yellowish orange, and straight rays like cat whiskers colored yellow, a tree on the right corner of the page, and a small slope-roofed hut on the left corner with a ugly looking stick figure standing next to his humble abode. I couldn’t have imagined it then, but today staring at this incredible sunrise, I realized how lucky I am to witness the sight of my childhood imagination in flesh!

Sunrise and the Dhauladhar ranges!
Sunrise and the Dhauladhar ranges!


Here’s to a new life in the mountains, I hope to take you through my journey through regular pics and blogposts! Stay with me 🙂