The one place that single-handedly kept Spiti on the very top of my travel bucketlist! This will probably sound silly, but then most of the things I end up doing are silly so what the hell. Remember Highway, the scene where Alia is sitting and staring at the mountains on the other side. “Aisa lag raha hai ki woh mujhe bula raha hai, kaash hum waha jaa paate”, and Randeep Hooda very lovingly agrees to take her across. I’m not talking about those mountains, but the monastery in the background – that’s Key Monastery.
I have been lusting over that sight ever since I saw the movie, and I had never imagined that the actual place could be thousand times more spectacular!
Key Gonpa!!! The crown jewel of my entire trip to Spiti. I ended up staying here more than at any other village, and given a choice I wouldn’t have ever left! Technically, all the monasteries in Spiti have lodging facilities for travelers, but none come even close to the experience you’ll have at Key. For one thing, at Key you’re not put up in a guest house, you live in the existing Lama quarters, at Rs. 200 per night, including meals that will be cooked by and for the resident monks. The kitchen at Key Monastery beats every café, anywhere in the world, because here’s where conversations flow over endless cups of butter tea. When I visited, the Lama incharge of the cooking duties was Kunga ji, and he is the most adorable Lama I have ever met. Always smiling, always up for a chat (over a cup of chai, mind you!).
Place: Kitchen – Key Monastery.
Pic: Lama Kunga preparing chai for us, always the first to be up and going!
The evening I reached the monastery, I entered the kitchen to try and meet someone who could tell me what are the lodging facilities, and I met Kunga ji running around, serving all the monks. It was only 7 pm, but that’s regular dinner time at the monastery, and the tiny kitchen was bustling with more monks than it could accommodate, and one tiny traveler who looked utterly lost. Kunga ji noticed this and immediately came over with a plate of piping hot rajma and tingmu (Tibetan bread), “baitho baitho, pehle khana khao (sit sit, eat first!)”, and immediately 2 monks got up from the only bench in the kitchen to offer me a seat. I resisted, but I was overpowered by 5-6 monks “aap humare guest hai, aap baitho! (You are our guest, you should have a seat!”).
And I knew in that moment that this place would steal a piece of my heart forever.
I was lucky to be at the monastery on one of their most important days. It was the annual ceremony of Yenne Gaaye (Khetol), – a tradition of the Gelugpa religion of Buddhism, wherein all the 300 monks from Key Monastery visited each and every house in the village to conduct prayers and offer blessings. I was lucky to accompany them through this pilgrimage, visiting houses, indulging in the lovely hospitality of the locals, and chai – lots and lots of chai.
This is a lovely blog! Looks like you are/were having the time of your life! Thank you for allowing us a glimpse in to this rich vibrant culture. I will definitely visit this place; and do all the things you have done!
Hey Sangita, glad you enjoyed it! Would love to hear your stories if you end go here too 🙂
Hi there, great blog. I was thinking of going to Ki Monastery real soon. Do you have a point of contact over there or do I just land up over there? Do let me know. Thanks. 🙂
Just land up 🙂 Phones don’t work there.
So I’ve read in quite a few other blogs that they don’t allow outsiders to stay. I want to live in the monastery with them
I’ve done it, so trust me when I say you’re allowed. The other monasteries have a different guest building with professional kitchen etc, but Key Monastery let’s you stay and eat with the monks.
Hey Nidhi,nice post.
I am planning to visit Kaza,can you help to know if monasteries allow to stay for long(like a month) and charges?
Hey Anant, I somehow missed your comment earlier. This is a very delayed reply, but if you’re still looking for recommendations, apart from Key Monastery you should definitely visit the monasteries in Dhangkar and Lhalung. ALl monasteries have homestays or guest houses nearby, so you won’t have any trouble with accommodation. You can write to me at nidhithakur@live.in if you want any specific guidelines 🙂
Visited Spiti last month but did not know about lodging facilities at Key. Wish I had read your blog before visiting 🙂
Keep it up!
I hope it will become a great journey of our life……. I had inspired from Mr. krishnanath… his real life story… “spiti me barish” it will fulfill your journey …… I have trying to reach this destination from last 4 years…. now after reading your satisfying post.. I decided to bang there… give suggestions about this trip….. thank you ..nidhi….
I was there with my friends in the monestary in the second week of september and stayed there with the same people. Such a wonderful experience, I remember the chai pe charcha in the kitchen, Definitely one of the best memories of the trip, Going back to the monestary next week. Hope I find a place to stay.
Do pass my love to everyone 🙂
hi, i will; be at key monestry in october. I too want to stay there. please let me know the details of the same
Hey Sachin, you just have to go to the main monastery kitchen and ask the monks 🙂 Happy travels!
What an incredible sounds g experience. Thanks for sharing your story..
Was there any sort of communication barrier? I only speak English and would fear I would have a much different experience haha.
Don’t worry, you’ll do just fine if you know English. Most hotel owners and taxi drivers understand English. Of course you will face difficulties at times, but more often than not, you’ll be able to find someone to help you out. In India, you always do 🙂
By the way, the monks at the monastery are more comfortable with English than Hindi 😀
Hi,
Thank you for information. I am looking forward to visit Ki monastery. Is there any limitation on the number of days stay in Ki monastery and is there any courses that we can take up? Do they allow us to do any kind of service in the monastery like cooking, cleaning, etc..,
Hey Vibha, there is no such restriction, you can stay as long as you like. I don’t know about courses, but you can join all their activities like cooking, cleaning, playing cricket / football, teaching young monks every morning. They let you join in every experience 🙂 Hope you have a great trip!
Thank you Nidhi. This will help me in having better trip.
Is there any training conducted for normal/common people like us?
Hi, We (3 people) are planning a visit to Spiti in June and want to stay at Key monestiry for a day. Is it possible to stay in the monestory rooms? Do you have a contact number for us to reach out and check availability ? Please email me at rajibijur@gmail.com
Thanks
Raji
Hi Nidhi,
We’re planning to do Hampta Pass trek and also visit Spiti (Key Monastery) during this trek tentatively planned for Sept’17. Every other blog says we should opt for acco at Kaza but I read your blog and got to know about travellers being able to stay at the Monastery. Does this still hold good? Thanks for your help
Hi Isha, Did you get any other information on this? Me too planning to travel during the same time. With same trek plan from Indiahikes till Chdratal. Please let me know if you have more information?
Any of you still seeking information? I’m terribly sorry for my super delayed response, had lost access to my website. Write to me at nidhithakur@live.in any time 🙂
Even i was planning of going at such place, but now after reading this I will surely go no doubt. But mine main motive is to learn some spiritual aspects. And I would love to stay over there for quite a long time, i mean I will.
Hi..It was really a good blog, love the way you wrote it..!!
Actually i really need a help from you…if you can i”ll be very thankful to you..!!
Below is my email id to contact me:
Akash7863@yahoo.in
Hey Akash, happy to help! You can write to me at nidhithakur@live.in or just drop a message on Facebook! 🙂
Hi, I am a 21 year old woman, traveling solo to Kaza. Is it safe? And do you think I’ll be accommodated?
Hey Prachi, Spiti is very safe for women traveling alone. The only difficulty is the terrain and rough conditions, which is also a great experience! About accommodation, all monasteries and villages have ample number of really comfortable and hospitable homestays. So I’m sure you won’t have trouble with that aspect. If you have any specific queries, just write to me on nidhithakur@live.in
hi.. im planning to make a solo trip to key monastery this sept.
i wanted to know whether rooms are available there in the monastery.. please let me know so that i can make necessary arrangements
Hey Sreekumar, I am so sorry for not replying in time – I had lost access to my website and just retrieved it. Are you still looking for advice? Let me know, or just drop an email to nidhithakur@live.in ?
I am solo woman wiling to travel to kaza and spiti. I want to ride in locals and travel on my own out there without getting into any package. Is it fine to do so.Ware there buses and cabs for going to key monastery pin valley national park and chandaatal. Will I be allowed to live in a local village with the villagers. Please do reply.
Hey Sumedha, I had lost access to my website and do I find myself replying to really old comments. Are you still looking for advice? Let me know, or just drop an email to nidhithakur@live.in 🙂
Hi
We 3 girls are planning sipti between 30th September to 7th so let me know if you have any contact of key monastery so that I can check out availability of rooms…thanks
Hey Chiral, I’m so sorry for replying so late! I lost access to my website and I’m just noticing all the old comments. Did your trip go alright? Are you still looking for advice? Let me know, or just drop an email to nidhithakur@live.in ?
Hi,
I am a 22 year old female.
I want to visit this monastery in persuit of peace.
This would be my first solo trip. I don’t plan to visit any other place, just the monastery.
Please help me with getting information on accommodation and best time to visit.
Hi Alice, the monastery doesn;t have any phone or internet access. So I can only advice that you reach the monastery and request accommodation – that’s what I did and it worked fine. The only problem will be if the monastery is full and they don’t have rooms available (they offer us monk quarters) Because this is your first solo trip, may I also suggest preparing well for cold / extreme conditions, as this place won’t have internet / Google Maps or Uber services which we are usually reliant on in cities. Would love to guide you more on this, just drop me an email on nidhithakur@live.in or msg me on Facebook!
Hi Nidhi, This pratik from Jaipur. I m planning to visit key monastery in kaza. I will travell in the mid of October and back till the mid of November so is it a good time to visit. One more thing, apart from Monk quarters which cost INR 200 as you said is there any other option in the monastery…Please advice me in both things…
Regards
Pratik
Hey Priyanka, they also have a guest house which is slightly more expensive (I did not check the price) October is a great time to visit, that’s when I went too. Hope you have a nice trip 🙂
Hey nidhi,
Wonderful article – you just made want to my pack my bags and fulfill my wanderlust !
Anyways , can you tell when does the annual ceremony of Yenne Gaaye (Khetol), – take place exactly .
I would love to witness this.
Waiting for your reply.?
Hi Harshad, I stumbled upon the ceremony without knowing about it. I was at Key for the first two weeks of October, so the ceremony should happen around that period.
Hey Nidhi, great blog.
I’m planning to go there as well in April end, mostly solo trip. (never done it before)
I’m hoping if you could guide with details like traveling from Mumbai – Chandigarh seems sorted. Post that couldnt get substantial details on google.
Shimla- Narkanda – Kaza- Spiti route is the one I’m thinking of taking.
Would like your opinion & advice
Thank you
Hi Durgesh, I’m guessing I’m a little late in responding to this comment. Hope your trip went well 🙂
Thank you for sharing this with us 🙂 Im planning to go to this monastery and stay for atleast 40 days…is that a possibilty in your experience? If so how much would it cost in your opinion? I want to go on a reflective/meditative retreat so if u have any other suggestions as well please let me know 🙂
thank you
Hey Gurinder, you can stay at Key for as long as you like, and it costed me some Rs. 300 per night (though I can’t exctly remember) The only thing that you should remember is that this is a monastery residence, so if there are many monks, availability might differ. Also if you go during winters, they won’t offer you a room. Hope you have a nice trip 🙂